Embroideries of India includes many different genre of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design. In a diverse country like India, embroidery has always been the expertise of women, both working and homemakers. For every important moment in a woman’s life like wedding, birth, and religious functions, stitching continues to be a promising skill.

KANTHA

Kantha is perhaps the oldest forms of Indian embroidery as it can be traced back to 1st Century A.D. The thought behind this needlework was to reuse old clothes and materials and turn them into something new. Kantha evolved as an embroidery craft in the eastern regions of the Indian subcontinent, specifically in Bangladesh and in the Indian states of West Bengal, Tripura and Odisha. This is normally used above a bed cushion or instead of a cushion. “Kantha saris” are traditionally worn by women in Bengal region of the Indian subcontinent.. Kantha is a form of embroidery often practised by rural women. The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done with soft dhotis and saris, with a simple running stitch along the edges. There are 7 different types of Kantha stitches, each having their own unique usage-. the Lep Kantha, which is used to make warm, padded quilts or the Baiton Kantha is used on covers meant to wrap books and other precious objects. Today, kantha embroidery is popular amongst the designer fraternity , media and is truly India;s pride.

KAMAL KADHAI

Kamal Kadai is an Indian embroidery style native to the state of Andhra Pradesh that primarily uses needle weaving to stitch beautiful flowers. There is definitely a specific style to the flower designs. The flower petals kind of look like they have “steps” or “levels”. It has a 3D effect and look beautiful. The pattern can be used on dresses or cushion covers or making other household stuffs like bed sheets, pillow covers, etc. This style of embroidery first started amongst the rural folk about 500 years ago, but was later received Royal patronage.

PHULKARI

Phulkari is the most famous rural embroidery tradition of Punjab, mentioned in the Punjabi folklore of ‘Heer Ranjha’ by Waris Shah. Its present form and popularity goes back to 15th century, during the colossal Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s reign. Phulkari also means headscarf, and it comes from the 19th century tradition of carrying an odhani or a head-scarf with flower patterns. Its distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi cloth, with bright coloured threads that cover it completely, leaving no gaps. It uses a darn stitch done from the wrong side of the fabric using darning needles, one thread at a time, leaving a long stitch below to form the basic pattern.Famous for Phulkari are cities likeAmritsar, Jalandhar, Ambala, Ludhiana, Nabha, Jind Delhi etc.

CHAMBA RUMAL

The Chamba Rumal is an embroidered handicraft that was once promoted under the patronage of the former rulers of Chamba kingdom. It has been a common item of gift during marriages with detailed patterns in bright and pleasing colour schemes.Earliest reported form of this rumal is the one made by BebeNanaki, sister of Guru Nanak in the 16th century, which is now preserved in the Gurudwara at Hoshiarpur.

Known as a “needle wonder,” ChambaRumal is now made in square and rectangular shapes. The materials used still consist of muslin, malmal, khaddar, fine charcoal or brush, and silk threads without knots. Using a double satin stitch for the embroidery, both faces of the cloth are concurrently stitched by a forward and backward technique to maintain uniformity of design on both faces of the rumal. After completing the embroidery, the fabric is stitched with a border of about 2 to 4 inches on all sides.The embroidery technique adopted, called the doharatanka or double satin stitch, created distinct identical patterns on both faces of the fabric, which were attractive when viewed even from distance of 10 ft and more. The doharatanka method is a heritage of Kashmir, which was adopted in Basohli and Chamba, but was improved upon by adopting themes from the special Mughal art of Chamba miniature paintings; this art form flourished during the 18th and 19th centuries. Following Indian Independence, this art work lost its royal patronage, but was again revived in the 1970s

KUTCH EMBROIDERY

Kutch Embroidery is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal community of Kutch District in Gujarat. History is traced to the 16th and 17th centuries when people migrated from the countries such as Afghanistan, Greece, Germany, Iran and Iraq to Gujarat. It is also said that cobblers known as Mochis were trained in this art form by the Muslim sufi saints of Sindh. The art form became a vocation for women of Kutch not only to meet their own clothing requirements but also to make a living, in view of severe dry and very hot conditions. It became a generational art with the skills taught from mother to daughter. The embroidery, is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The types of stitches adopted are “square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches”. The signature effect of the colorful embroidery sparkles when small mirrors called abhla are sewn over the geometrically shaped designs. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, GarasiaJat, and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand embroidered ethnic styles have evolved.

KASHMIRI EMBROIDERY

Kashmiri embroidery(also called Kashida) is used for phirans (woollen kurtas) and namdahs (woollen rugs)as well as stoles. It draws inspiration from nature- Birds, blossoms and flowers, creepers, chinar leaves, ghobi, mangoes, lotus, and trees are the most common themes. The entire pattern is made with one or two embroidery stitches, and mainly chain stitch on a base of silk, wool and cotton: the colour is usually white, off-white or cream but nowadays one can find stoles and salwar-kameez sets in many other colours such as brown, deep blue, sky blue, maroon and rani pink. Apart from clothes, it’s found on home furnishings like bed spreads, sofa and floor cushions, and pillow covers.

Kashmiri embroidery is known for the skilled execution of a single stitch, which is often called the Kashmiri stitch and which may comprise the chain stitch, the satin stitch, the slanted darn stitch, the stem stitch, and the herringbone stitch. Sometimes, the doori (knot) stitches are used but not more than one or two at a time.
The stitches include sozni (satin), zalakdozi (chain) and vatachikan (button hole). Other styles include dorukha in which the motif appears on both sides of the shawl with each side having a different color; papier-mâché; aari (hook) embroidery; shaaldaar; chinar-kaam; samovar (the antique Kashimiri tea-pot) is a very typical and popular design used in Kashmiri embroidery.

KASUTI

Kasuti is a traditional form of folk embroidery practised in the state of Karnataka.Kasuti work which is very intricate sometimes involving craftingupto 5,000 stitches by hand and is traditionally made on dresswear like Sarees orKurta.Its history dates back to the Chalukya period.The women courtiers in the Mysore Kingdom in the 17th century were expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them. The Kasuti embroidery features folk designs influenced by rangoli patterns of Karnataka, mirror work embroidery and gold & silver thread embroidery were mostly used for special occasions like weddings. Kasuti involves embroidering very intricate patterns like gopura, chariot, palanquin, lamps and conch shells. The pattern to be embroidered is first marked with charcoal or pencil and then proper needles and thread are selected. The work is laborious and involves counting of each thread on the cloth. The patterns are stitched without using knots to ensure that both sides of the cloth look alike. Different varieties of stitches are employed to obtain the desired pattern. Kasuti work has grown beyond its traditional boundaries to be used in other dress materials like the Mysore silk saree.

CHIKANKARI

The present form of chikan (meaning elegant patterns on fabric) work is associated with the city of Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh. Chikan embroidery on silk is Lucknow’s own innovation. The other chikan styles are that ofKolkata and Dhaka. However, characteristic forms of stitch were developed in Lucknow- phanda and murri.

Chikan embroidery is believed to have been introduced by Noor Jahan, the wife of Jahangir. Chikan embroidery involves the use of white thread on white muslin, fine cotton, or voile, fine almost sheer fabrics which showcases shadow work embroidery the best. Other colours can also be used.The artisans usually create individual motifs or butis of animals and flowers like rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers etc. The designs are first printed onto the fabric not with chaulk, but with a mixture of glue and indigo.At least 40 different stitches are documented, of which about 30 are still practiced today and include flat, raised and embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like jaali work. Some of the stitches that are used in Chikankari work include: taipchi, pashni, bakhia,buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch etc.

TODA EMBRODERY

Toda embroidery has its origins in Tamil Nadu. The Nilgiri Hills, inhabited by the Todu community have their own style called pugur, means flower. This embroidery, like Kantha, is practiced by women.The embroidery adorns the shawls. The shawl, called poothkuli, has red and black bands between which the embroidery is done. As Todas worship the buffaloes, buffalo becomes an important motif in the Toda embroidery. Stylized sun, moon, stars and the eye of the peacock feathers designs are also used.

SHAMILAMI

A renowned textile craft from Manipur is the Shamilami fabric, which uses a technique that combines those of weaving and embroidery. The ethnic Meithei community practises the intricate and distinct technique used in the traditional production of Shamilami fabric, whereby motifs such as tindogbi, inspired by the gracefulness of a silk caterpillar eating a castor leaf, decorate the fabric. Shamilami’s one of a kind production technique and design continues to inspire awe as it did throughout history.This has a unique type of embroidery that uses one stitch, in deference to the weavers in the area. This is done in dark matching shade with untwisted silk thread on the border of the phanek (a lungi or lower body wrap worn by women). Colours in dark red, plum or chocolate are usually used. The embroidery is so artistically done that it does not clash with the weave and is often mistaken for it.Angami Naga shawls have animal motifs in black. This was previously called samilamiphee (which means warrior cloth of wild animals) and was given to brave distinguished warriors by the royalty, in recognition of their prowess and ability. The colours are bright green, red, yellow, and white. Possession of Shamilami- a combination of weaving and embroidery, is considered a status symbol.

SSUJANI

Sujani embroidery originated from the Bhusura village of Bihar. In ancient times, it was considered as a form of quilting wherein old sarees and dhotis were used as the creative canvas, the cloth was folded twice or thrice and then simple stitches were done on these used clothing to add newness to them. Today, Sujani embroidery is also practiced in the southern part of Rajasthan for making patterns on Sarees, dupattas and other clothing and home furnishing.The most important requirement is to use easily available raw material as the base fabric. The process begins with tracing down the designs on the base fabric using tracing wheel and tracing sheet. Then artisans start drawing background by fine running stitch. And finally black or brown threads are used for outlining the motifs and colorful threads are used to fill in colors in the motifs. This style of embroidery is similar to the Kantha stitch of West Bengal. Difference in use of colors, themes and motifs differentiate these two embroideries from each other. With the evolving times, the craftsmen started embellishing Indian ethnic outfits like sarees, kurtas, dupattas and other clothing items with Sujani embroidery. Home decor items such as cushion covers, bedspreads, and wall hangings are some of the popular items decorated with Sujani embroidery. Winter wear clothing like Stoles and Jackets with Sujani embroidery are made using the Tussar silk fabric.The Sujani is not merely a traditional craft. It is also a way to convey social and political messages. Today, the production of Sujani embroidery is done in about 15 villages of India.

APPLIQUE

Applique is a type of embroidery that employs a smaller patch or fabric to be applied or sewed onto a larger fabric or surface. It is mostly one piece of fabric in its entirety. This embroidery art form come to India with the French in the 17th century.
When it comes to sewing, an Appliqué basically refers to a type of needlework technique in which, various pieces of embroidery, fabric, or other materials are sewn onto another piece of fabric to create different designs, abstract patterns or pictures. Appliqué is used extensively in quiltingor adorn sarees with elaborate and vibrant looking borders.In Andhra Pradesh, the blouses and headscarves worn by the Banjara tribal women are not only embroidered but also decorated with appliqué and mirror work. Rajasthan is also known for its unique appliqué or gota, which is created by sewing edges of zari ribbon onto fabric, to create elaborate patterns.

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